This Le Marche winery has been producing their own DOC verdicchio wine since 1938 and welcomes visitors to take an intimate look into their wine-making and tasting process.
If you search, "most photogenic towns in Umbria", Spello comes up in the top ten. For such a small town, there's definitely a big group of people on the Internet who love it and extol its virtues. While taking a weekend trip in the region of Umbria, I fit Spello into an afternoon, after seeing Assisi. You could also do a day trip to Spello, from Rome, which is easier by car, and possible by train. If you're heading out to the campagna, Spello should be on the top of your list of things to see in Umbria.
Why go to Spello
Whereas other cities in the region of Umbria have many sights to see, including major cathedrals, museums, and shops, Spello is a small town on top of a mountain. Its location makes it very picturesque and fantastic for anyone interested in photography or seeing small-town Italian life. It's also in the region of Perugia, which like all of Umbria, has amazing wines. There are tons of small beer and wine shops along the tiny streets, with outdoor seating and fresh, farm-t0-table food.
There's really not much to dislike about this town, but it is very quiet and relaxed, so maybe not suitable for an entire weekend trip. As a stop along a larger Umbrian tour, I found it a perfect resting point and spot to eat a delicious lunch before driving back to Rome.
How to get there
Like most things in Italy, getting to Spello by car is probably the easiest way. In an hour and 45 minutes, you'll be at the top of the mountain and can park outside of the city walls. From there, walking is necessary and enjoyable.
If you can't rent a car or find a friend who has one, there's also an express train from Termini Station in the center of Rome to Foligno, that takes about two hours. From Foligno, you can easily take a 5 minute local train to Spello or call a cab for the 15 minute drive.
What to do
Spello is a town that deserves to be taken slowly, by enjoying glasses of wine outside and long walks through the center. It's all on a hill so you definitely get your exercise for the day walking around, but the views are worth it. I took some small side roads to see what else there was besides the main road (where most of the restaurants are located). There's also a path all the way up to the top of the mountain where most tourists go for the amazing panoramic view.
You need to set aside some time to eat in Spello because all of the food and wine there are absolutely amazing. We went for drinks and an aperitivo type meal, but a full lunch or dinner would be equally as great. Things to try are pasta with cinghiale (wild boar) ragu, porcini mushrooms, and any other pasta of the day. We got a full board of cheeses and meats that were meant to be paired with the wine and the overall experience was unbelievable. I still think about their cherry marmalade that they served with the cheese...
When ordering wine, definitely ask your waiter for recommendations. They have some amazing locally-produced wine in Spello that you can't find anywhere else in Italy. The reds are particularly good and local, which is what we went for.
There you have it— why this tiny, but surprisingly well-known town became one of my favorites in Umbria. Spello's great for a day trip or a weekend getaway. I love the entire region because I think it really has it all. Beautiful scenery, super friendly people, historic towns and truly some of the best food I've had in this country. I've also written a weekend guide to Umbria and a post about one of my favorite cities in the region, Urbino. I'd be interested to know, do you prefer smaller towns like this, or the heavy-hitters like Rome, Florence and Venice?
Finding a decent restaurant in the center can be hard. Osteria del Pegno is the answer to all of your pasta and meaty Italian dish needs. Located right near Piazza Navona (directly in the center alongside the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain), I've always found this restaurant to be a great option when I need someplace scenic, central and delicious. While it's not the best Roman food you can find in the city, it's a nice restaurant, with friendly staff, good food and excellent wine.
Osteria del Pegno is a family run restaurant that is well known for its quality food and great atmosphere. The owner himself has come out the (many) times that I've eaten dinner there. While I've never tried their lunch, the dinner menu is comprehensive and also sticks to Roman classics and traditional dishes.
The house wine is excellent and the waiters will help you decide on a bottle from their very extensive list. The seating area itself is decorated with aging bottles and you can see that they take pride in their selection.
Both the pasta and meat dishes are fantastic. I've tried their Amatriciana, Carbonara and Ossobuco and all were amazing. Their chef's lasagna wasn't my favorite but probably because that place is taken by Edoardo's mamma's famous lasagna.
You've got to save room for Pegno's desserts, all made in house. Their tiramisu is incredible and you'll always get a complimentary glass of limoncello to end the night.
Not much more to say about this place other than, it's a great choice for those busy days in Rome when you need a decent meal or the times when you want to have dinner out and take a walk in the center.
Thursday - Tuesday 12:00 - 3:00 ; 7:00 - 10:45
Vicolo di Montevecchio 8, 00186